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Felted Bag with Mitered Squares

5 skeins Noro Kureyon [100% wool; 100m per 50g skein]; colorways 124 and 128
1 US size 10 [6mm]circular needle [or size to obtain gauge]
2 bamboo purse handles, recycled from another bag or available at:
Sunbelt Fasteners
Handbag Supplies
(There are probably others... these are the first two I found. Mine were recyled from a thriftstore bag.)
stitch markers

13 sts and 26 rows = 4" in garter stitch.

15 x 15 x 5 inches prior to felting
9 x 11 x 3.5 inches after felting

The purse is worked in one piece beginning with the bottom. The diagram below shows the order in which the mitered squares that make up the bag are knit. Mitered squares are worked all in garter stitch. Even rows are worked plain, On each odd row, a double decrease is worked at the center -- this creates the square.

Bottom of Bag
Cast on 32 sts using a knitted or cable cast on.

Small Square
Row 1: K14, K2tog, place marker, K2tog, K14.
Row 2 and all following even rows: Knit.
Row 3 and all following odd rows: Knit to 2 sts before marker, K2tog, slip marker, K2tog, knit to end of row.

When 2 sts remain, remove marker and K2tog. Do not bind off last stitch.

To work second small square:
From the live stitch, pick up 15 more stitches along one side of the square [one stitch per garter ridge]. 16 sts on needle. Cast on 16 additional stitches using cable cast on -- 32 sts.

Work these 32 sts to create a second small square.

Repeat this process once again to create a third square in line with the first two.

Front and Back of Bag
Beginning with the remaining live stitch, pick up 23 additional stitches along one long side of the bag's bottom, one stitch per garter row. The last stitch you picked up should be at the center of the piece. Cast on an additional 24 stitches [48 sts on needle].

Work the large square as you did the small one:

Large Square
Row 1: K22, K2tog, place marker, K2tog, K22.
Row 2 and all even rows: Knit
Row 3 and all remaining odd rows: K to 2 sts before marker, K2tog, slip marker, K2tog, K to end of row.

Work a second large square above the first. This time, break yarn and pull through last st to secure.

Go back to the bottom of the bag and pick up 24 sts along the bottom of bag and 24 sts along the first large square. Work these 48 sts as described for the large square.

When this square is finished, work another above it to complete the first side of the bag. Break yarn and secure it by pulling through the last stitch.

Work the back as you did the front with 4 large squares. Referring again to the diagram for the order of squares.

Sides of Bag
The sides of the bag are worked in double-mitered squares which look like U shapes. The technique is very similar to the technique used above.

Beginning at the point where the bottom and front of the bag meet, count back 16 garter ridges from the bottom of the bag. Pick up 16 sts from the front of the bag, 16 sts along the bottom of the bag and 16 sts from the back of the bag.

Row 1: K14, k2tog, place marker,k2tog, k12, k2tog place marker, k2tog, k14.
Row 2 and all even rows: Knit.
Row 3 and all remaining odd rows: K to 2 sts before first marker, k2tog, slip marker, k2tog, knit to 2 sts before second marker k2tog, slip marker, k2tog, k to end of row.

When there are no longer any stitches left between the two markers, K 1 even row, then use a three needle bind off to seam remaining sts together. Break yarn and secure.

Work a second and third U above the first. The third U should come to the top of the bag.

Work the second side panel the same on the remaining side.

Decide which is the wrong side of the bag and work in all ends on the wrong side.

If desired, pick up 128 sts along the top of the bag (one for each stitch or garter ridge) and knit a couple of rows, then bind off loosely.

Place finished bag in a zipped laundry bag and toss into the washer with a pair of old jeans. Put washer on "hot", "small load" and "heavy duty" settings. I ran mine through the wash cycle twice and allowed the bag to be spun out.

Block bag on appropriately sized box. and allow to dry thoroughly. This may take a couple of days.

Sew handles in place with appropriately colored heavy duty thread or yarn. Noro Kureyon is not particularly strong, so it may not be the best choice for sewing on the handles.

bigger bulky baby bibby

Here is a scaled up version of the baby sweater. It should fit an average two year old. More experienced or patient knitters might like to knit this all in moss stitch -- it looks great. With moss stitch, mind that you get the bib lined up right!

body of sweater measures 13" x 13", sleeves are 8" long. compare these measurements to an existing sweater to see if you need to make it larger in any dimension. if so, simply add stitches.

suggested yarn: Berroco Pronto or other washable yarn in appropriate gauge
four 3/4" or 1" buttons (make sure to use cool buttons!)
gauge: 3 st/inch over garter stitch


CO 42 sts.
Work in garter stitch until piece measures 7.5 inches from cast on edge.

CO 24 sts at each edge for sleeves (90 sts).

When piece measures 13 inches, bind off center 16 stitches for neck.
Continue knitting sides separately for 1.5 inches, piece measures 14.5 inches.
CO 2 stitches at each neck edge. Work for 4 inches. Work second side the same.

Then, bind off the 24 stitches cast on for sleeve, and leave the remaining 16 stitches on a stitch holder. Work the second side the same way.

Separately CO 22 sts. Knit all rows.

On 3rd and 19th row, work 2-stitch buttonholes on each side. (Knit 2 stitches, bind off 2 stitches, work to 4 stitches of end of row, bind off 2 stitches, knit 2 stitches. On next row, cast on 2 stitches above bound off stitches.) Work 2 rows more (yoke should measure 4 inches).

Joining Yoke
Starting on a right side row, slip onto needle the 16 stitches left on holder and knit the first 11 stitches. Before knitting the last 5 sts, place the first 5 stitches of yoke in front of the body stitches and hold the two together in the left hand.

For these 5 stitches, knit together the stitches from both pieces (Put right needle through first stitch on yoke AND through stitch on body [as to knit on both] wrap yarn around BOTH needles and make stitch). You have now joined the first half of the yoke. Continue across center 12 stitches of yoke, and before the last 5 yoke stitches, place the first 5 body stitches (from remaining stitch holder) BEHIND the yoke. Work these stitches, knitting together 1 stitch from each needle for each stitch 5 times. Knit to end of row.

Continue working front on 42 stitches. When piece 26 inches, bind off all stitches.

Weave in ends as necessary. Sew seams along sleeve and body. Sew buttons on opposite buttonholes.

bulky baby asymmetrical cardigan for any gauge yarn

6-12 months

Back and front are worked in one piece. Begin at lower edge of back. Fill in your gauge per inch (to 2 decimal places, e.g. 4.75) in the blanks, then multiply out. Round up as necessary.

Cast on gauge _____ x 10 = _____ stitches and work in garter stitch.

When piece measures 5.5 inches from beginning, using cable cast on, CO gauge _____ x 5.5 = _____ stitches at one side for first sleeve. Knit back across sleeve and body. CO gauge _____ x 5.5 = _____ stitches for second sleeve. Work even in garter stitch until piece measures 9.75 inches.

Neck Shaping and Right Front
Bind off center gauge _____ x 4 = _____ stitches and continue on the rem sts at left edge, leaving the right edge sts on a stitch holder. Knit 6 rows, then, at right edge, cast on gauge _____ x 1.25 = _____ sts. Work even on these stitches.

When piece measures 13.75 inches from beginning, bind off the stitches cast on for the first sleeve (gauge ____ x 5.5 = ____ sts) from cuff to body. Continue on the remaining sts and when piece measures 19.75 inches from beginning, bind off stitches.

Neck Shaping and Left Front
Slip the left front sts from the stitch holder onto needle. Knit 6 rows, then at neck edge, cast on gauge____ x 4.25 = _____ sts. Work even on these sts until piece measures 11 inches from beginning. Work buttonhole 2 stitches in from edge. Work even for 3.25 inches. Make a second buttonhole below the first.

When piece measures 13.75 inches from beginning, bind off (gauge ____ x 5.5 = ____ sts) stitches. Work even on remaining sts until piece measures 19.75 inches from edge. Cast off.

shortrows sideways hat

This little beanie is knit flat and sideways. It's all garter stitch and an easy way to try out shortrows. Very satisfying knitting as you're always decreasing and there are lots of milestones to make you feel like you're making progress.

about 1 skein of cotton dishrag yarn, or scraps of whatever's around.
needles appropriate for yarn

1-2 size [with suggestions for more sizes]

5 stitches per inch


First Wedge
Cast on 35 stitches.
Row 1: Knit back.
Row 2: Knit 34 stitches and turn -- just ignore the last stitch! (I didn't wrap the shortrows, you can if you wish.)
Row 3: Knit back.
Row 4: Knit 32 stitches and turn.
Continue in this manner, knitting 2 fewer stitches each even row, through the 8th garter ridge (15 rows plus cast on row). You should have 22 active stitches. You have completed the first wedge of the hat.

Second Wedge
Knit back across all 35 stitches.
Knit back.
Continue as for first wedge, knitting first 34 stitches, then 32, then 30, and so on until 22 stitches remain (13 stitches decreased).

Rest of Hat
Continue in this manner until 8 wedges are complete. Knit one more complete row (35 stitches), then bind off.

Box Stitch Option
On wedge 2 and wedge 6, work first 22 stitches in box stitch. In retrospect, I think you could knit the whole wedge in box stitch, but I wasn't sure how it would look before I knit it. The box stitch wedges is slightly wider than garter stitch and not as stretchy, but it's not problematic.

Optionally, pick up 4-5 stitches evenly around top and, with two DPNs, make 3 inches of I cord. Break off yarn and thread it through all stitches and pull it snug. Use needle to thread yarn tail through to wrong side.

Tie simple knot in I-cord close to base of hat.

Sew two open sides of of hat together.

Or, use needle and thread to pick up stitches around top of hat (there will be a little hole) and pull them snug. Attach a pom-pom, big button, tassel, tiny stuffed animal, etc. to top of hat.

Re-Sizing This Pattern

If you want to make this larger, there are a number of ways to do it:

For Zoe's hat (she's almost 5, but small), I made nine wedges with the same number of stitches and decreases.

Another option for a larger hat is to simply knit the same hat with a larger gauge of yarn and needles.

A third option: Add a few more stitches to your cast on and knit more short rows (i.e. Start with 40 stitches, and knit shortrows up to 15 or 17 decreased instead of 13).

flat hat

about 1 skein of cotton dishrag yarn, or scraps of whatever's around
needles appropriate for yarn
2 O-rings (optional)

newborn size (14" head), easy to change for other sizes, though

5 stitches per inch

Cast on 14" worth of stitches (for 5 st./inch, that's 70 stitches) on straight needles. Knit in stockinette if you want a rolled brim, or k1p1 rib for about 1 inch. Switch to garter stitch (knit all rows). Continue knitting for 6 or so inches. Bind off all stitches.

Sew across top and the one open side. Attach pom-poms, yarn covered O-rings, or I-cords to the top corners. Looks like a funny potholder, but really cute on your baby!

mitered kool-aid baby hat

A mitered hat with triangular detailing. The directions are for knitting flat, though clearly it is better suited to knitting in the round/dpns. I just don't have the technology! Uses crochet cast on.

Lionbrand Fisherman's Wool Dyed with Kool-Aid
needles to obtain gauge.

4.25 st/inch

The pattern is written for you to plug in your own sizing (numbers in parentheses are for a 16" head -- maybe 6-12 months).

Crochet Cast-On
A new technique for me, but it wasn't hard at all. Try it, you'll like it!
Using a crochet hook, make a crochet chain that contains at least as many stitches as you need for the hat with scrap yarn (say 80). Mark the end that you finished on with an extra knot or a piece of tape. With your knitting needles, pick up the number of stitches from your crocheted worm that you need for your hat. You need to pick up the little "bump" in the middle of the back of the stitch. The number of stitches should be some multiple of 4 plus 2 for selvedge (74). [If you are knitting in the round, omit the selvedge stitches.]

Knit the Hat
Work in stockinette stitch until you've made it from the bottom of the ear to almost the top of the head (4 generous inches).
Now place 4 markers evenly, but not at the open edge.
[Here's how for 72 stitches: Take the number of stitches minus the two selvedge stitches and divide by 4 (74-2 = 72, 72/4 = 18). Divide this result by 2 (18/2 = 9). Knit 1, knit 9, place marker, knit 18, place marker, knit 18, place marker, knit 18, place marker, knit last 10 stitches.]

Start Mitering
You will be decreasing 2 stitches at each marker on every row. Before each marker make a K2tog decrease, after each marker make a SSK decrease. Continue until there are 6 stitches. Use a needle or crochet hook to run thread through these last stitches,pull tightly and secure.

Working the Brim
Snip the crocheted chain on the marked end and rip it open like the top of a bag of sugar. Pick up the stitches with your knitting needles as you go. With the right side of hat facing you, knit one row, increasing (evenly spaced, but not at the ends of rows) to attain a multiple of 7. (For my hat 72+5 = 77)
Switch to reverse stockinette stitch (purl all RS rows, knit all WS rows) and work for maybe 3/4 of an inch.

Making Triangles
These are worked in garter stitch: Knit across 7 stitches, Turn, K2tog, knit to end of row. 3rd row: K2tog, knit acoss row and so on until there is one stitch. Bind off.
Re-attach your yarn and repeat on second set of 7 stitches. Continue around hat in this manner until you've used up all the stitches. Make sure you weave in ends on the back (purl) side.

Block or steam it a little so that the triangles aren't all wonky and the brim is turned up. Sew up back seam with seam always on the purl side. You'll want to switch sides at the point where you fold up the brim so it doesn't show! if necessary, tack the brim in place.

flat pants

These pants are really unfussy to make, great for beginning seamsters. There're not pattern pieces to lay out and if you are lazy, hurried, or reckless, you can even forego those usual pesky steps like pinning. I recommend finishing your seams, so that your finished garment looks tidy and doesn't get frayed seams when you wash it, but you can skip that too. You can definitely get these done in a couple of hours, especially if the recipient of the pants isn't around...

While they are super easy, they are not assembled like regular pants! Instead of having 4 leg pieces (front left, front right, back left, back right), these have left leg, right leg, and two center panels. Don't let this bother you. After they are assembled, but before you put in the waistband, they will more or less resemble a large square with a smaller square section missing bottom center.

These are best suited for the diaper set, since they have a big tochis, but I've made them for older kids too. These particular measurements should fit from maybe 9 - 24 months depending on how big your baby is and how fast she grows. They're designed with lots of grow room. You can make adjustments easily in length (or width, though these are wide enough for any toddler!), or add even more cuff to be let out as your kid grows.

There are many options to jazz them up. The pair in the photo has a more complicated cuff with little buttons. I've also made them with pockets (try stealing some from a man's dress shirt that's ready for the rag bag!), with extra little tabs and big buttons, colorblocks of more fabrics, etc. Generally I just make everything out of rectangles... no need to cut a pattern, just stick the ruler on there and cut.


Fabric 1
2 rectangles, each approximately 18" x 16" (18" is length, if you need to orient your fabric) for legs
Fabric 2: (or fabrics 3, 4, 5, and 6 if you want to!)
2 rectangles, each about 7" x 13" (for center panels)
2 rectangles, each 3 1/2 inches by 16 inches (cuffs)

1 piece 1" elastic about 18" long

thread (matching, or contrasting if you want this to be an additional design element)

(n.b. i've assumed the usual 5/8 seam allowance in this, but you can fudge)

Prep Steps
wash and iron all your fabric.
cut out pieces as specified
if you want to add pockets, or other embellishments, do so now while the piece is nice and flat and easy to work with.

For Legs
sew 1 cuff piece to each leg, right sides together.
finish bottom edge of cuff (i.e. zigzag along edge, or turn 1/4 inch and sew straight).
iron seam toward cuff.

For Center Panels
put one center panel on top edge of pants panel, right sides facing, with 7" side at top.
sew this seam.
repeat on the other side.
repeat with second center panel on opposite side of pants.
press and finish seams (press seams toward center, then zigzag them together at edge).
with pants inside out, make sure all the parts are lined up. sew from bottom of one cuff, up leg, across crotch and down the other leg.
press and finish seams.

For Cuffs
with pants still inside out, turn cuff up slightly past the cuff/pantleg seam. press.
sew along previous seam line.
you may wish to make an additional seam 1/8 inch from first.

For Waistband
with pant turned inside out, fold down 1/4 inch at waistine and press. sew (or ignore).
turn down 1 1/2 inches (again, to inside) and press for waistband.
sew around waistband leaving a small opening for elastic.
run elastic through (you may want to check waistband against some existing pants for size), tack elastic together and sew up opening.